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PHASE #0 of Home Remodeling Project
"Things you should seriously consider before you engage in a home remodeling project."

[On to Phase 1] [Seen Enough]

[Project Overview] [Home Design Reference] [Lien Waver Example] [Buy a House] [Heating & AC]

Before we began this project we had extensive experience in home remodeling and were excited about the aspects of recreating our living space. Unfortunately, there are a number of snags that we ran into along the way that we would like to share with you just so you know this process was not as it would seem when you watch "This Old House" or "Hometime".

Here is what we actually did, how it turned out, and how we would do things differently:

What we did: How it turned out: How we would do things differently:
Hire an Architect Badly. The architect fees were estimated to be 3-5% of the cost of the project. However, we had just started this project and got a bill for $2000 and had not yet had anything remotely resembling working drawings. We actually liked this architect and found him to be very responsive as well as friendly. However, from the start a number of questionable things happened that made us change our minds about this decision. First of all, the architect, sent out a staff person to measure the house. Which we were remodeling. This person measured for over 3 hours and I actually saw his notes upon completion. This guy measured every single doorway, wall, room, hallway, as well as the outside dimensions of the house. The problem I had with this is that we were completely gutting the second floor. So a majority of these dimensions were completely useless. When the architect came back with a couple sketches of the proposed house plans they only used the outside dimensions of the house. These sketches also didn't take into account the fact that somehow you need to get furniture in these rooms. No consideration was given to where to place windows, doors, closets, ect. based on where/how you would set up a bed for example. A neighbor who is a builder came over when they saw us using this architect and told us that while this guy was good, that the plans were often unnecessarily expensive to build. For example, this person had designed in special order garage doors rather than standard doors which would jack up the price on the overall project -- which in turn increases their fee. Apparently, this is pretty standard practice and unsuspecting home owners only find out too late or must pay for changes to the plans to correct these which may also involve receiving approval from the city. An architect can be a very useful resource in any home remodeling project. However, if you know what you want to build, how you want it to look,  and for the most part what materials you prefer. The architect becomes a very expensive addition. Based on my experience, for a full set of working drawings you are talking between $5-10,000 minimum. If you want your architect to obtain variances (if required), any/all permits, and oversee construction your costs will run you several times that figure above and approaching 5-10% of the project costs. A cheaper way to approach this is to either hire an independent draftsperson. They could draft you working drawings for less than $1000. If you buy your lumber from some building supply stores, some will provide you these services for free. An interesting comparison between building focused draftsperson and an architect is that draftsperson really understands dimensional lumber. They will give you plans that will be the least expensive to build -- an architect will always be more expensive.
Obtain a variance Badly, although we had talked to our neighbors prior to this project about what we were planning to do we did not sail smoothly through the process of obtaining the necessary variances. Our house is located within two different zones. White Bear Lake City zone and the lake shoreline district zone -- any house within a block of the lake falls into this shoreline district zone. The lake shore zone is especially critical about how the land can be used. To proceed with our building plans. We needed three variances. A side set back variance -- because our house was only 7 feet off the property line to the west, any work done on the house to this side required a variance. Since we were going to be rebuilding a large part of the west wall of the house, we needed this variance. We also needed a front set back variance as the code stated the house needed to be 25 feet back from the street (or perhaps it was the center of the sidewalk - something like that) - the existing foundation already exceeded this variance. There was also a impervious surface variance that required no more than 30% of the property of each lot be covered with an impervious surface. The existing house, garage, driveway already exceeded this. Thus adding the front porch required these two variances. Once we applied for these all hell broke loose and we found ourselves mixed up in a dispute with our neighbor to the west. Apparently, the previous owner did some things without obtaining the proper permits so they wanted these things changed before they would approve the variances. The variance board approved our proposed plans however asked that we resolve the outstanding matter with our neighbor to the west before the city council votes on our project. This neighbor called their city council member complaining that this project would additionally block house's access to sunlight, wind, and view of the lake and that they asked the project be denied. We ended up agreeing to move an AC compressor installed by the previous owner at the cost of $1000. The other issues brought up by the neighbor were dropped after we agreed to move the AC compressor. Go to the neighbors and meet with them face to face with plans in hand and a short letter of agreement or support for them to sign. If there are any issues work these issues out with these parties privately. If you don't do it this way, other issues can get raised that may further complicate the process or success. If you have letters of agreement/support in hand, there really should not be a problem with obtaining the variance unless your neighbors change their mind. However, since they have to live next to you, most neighbors don't tend to go back on their word.
Signed a authorization request from lumber yard to obtain a lien on the house in the event of a payment issue regarding materials. Badly. Once the project started the trusses were ordered. Shortly there after we received a letter from the lumber yard asking for a permission of lien in the event of a failure to pay. We signed this and returned it to the lumber yard.

This eventually gave the lumber yard permission to place a lien on our home for the price of all materials delivered (both paid and unpaid) when we questioned the builder's costs of changes and additional materials. This lien, actually gave our builder a way to charge us for excess materials delivered to our site that were either improperly used and discarded. He also attempted to use this as a way to obtain additional funds for work that was not authorized.

Should have paid the lumber yard in full for the materials with a check and not signed the request for permission to lien. This was one of the single worst things we did.

From there as materials were shipped to the site, pay for them as required by the lumber yard. However, in this way, they can't just easily file a lean against your home and force you to pay.

Sign contract provided by the builder The builder sent us a contract that was fairly generic (perhaps due to his own inexperience). We were in agreement with it and signed and returned it to him. However, our requested start date came and went. We ended up starting two months later than we hoped, and finished several months after we had hoped.

Since this was not written into the contract we were at the mercy of the builder and their subcontractors schedules. These people work when the feel like working with no care or motivation to finish the project as soon as possible -- especially in absence of no schedule to meet. 

I highly suggest you state that the property be at least swept, and that all spare lumber be first offered to the homeowner and then promptly returned to the lumber yard. All scrape lumber and building materials should also be removed with some honest attempt made to pickup and remove a majority of the nails left around the building site.

The contractor may discuss things with you verbally in terms of what would be "ideal" but if its not written into the contract he is not liable for proceeding based on these discussions. Its best to discuss possible start dates, length project, and possible completion dates and place these into the terms of the contract. Provide an incentive to complete the project on schedule (1% bonus) as well as an incentive to not risk missing the completion dates ($150/day which includes weekdays and weekends). If the builder is provided with an incentive (however little) they will be motivated to complete it on schedule. Make sure that the contract only refers to the statement of work provided and that the deadlines must be met independent of any other work performed on this site or other sites. If the builder refuses to sign, suggest a compromise of how long they think the project will run and add additional days to make them feel more comfortable -- only get them to agree to the incentives (both good and bad). Note that completing the work when they state on the quote should not be met with rewards -- as its expected. Incentives should be applied to projects completed ahead of schedule.It is also important that completion state of the contract be clearly stated.
Pay ahead of time set by original contract We paid for work completed but not according to the contract which stated that the second draw would come after completing the framing inspection. However, work stalled after this draw and it was months before the framing inspection could take place. Even if the work completed looks as though it will pass the framing inspection its a good idea to hold the money until inspection is completed and any corrections suggested by the inspector are promptly corrected before the payment is given. Do not pay unless work is completed according to the contract. Else, it provides the operators with leverage as they have received another draw only perhaps no customers.
Final payment Badly. Upon completion of the work we finally paid the builder in full, however we failed to demand lien wavers of all sub contractors involved in the project. This allowed the builder an opportunity to demand payment for extras or else he and his sub contractors would file a lien against our home. If we had obtained the lien wavers as a condition of the final payment we would have had leverage of the final payment hanging over the builder's head.

We didn't know what a lien waver was until we were nearly through this project. However, after learning it, we required each and every sub contractor there after to sign the waver as a condition for them to receive final payment.

The lien waver as well as the payment conditions are powerful tools for the home owner in the event the builder and or subcontractor fails to perform the work promised, or is paid in full for work performed. In both cases, the home owner can leverage these - in fact they exist to protect the home owner. If this causes the project completion to be delayed it falls upon the builder to complete the originally agreed project or face payment deductions.
Contract dispute Badly. The builder told us we needed to pay for extras prior to their continuing to work on the project. The law is very clear here and in nearly every state it is written to protect the home owner -- if they don't agree to anything (verbally or otherwise out side the project) unless a written change order is received. The change order ends up being in effect a separate contract for additional work. However, the builder is still under a contract and if you were wise enough to put deadlines into the contract they are under those as well. The builders are pretty clever with extras or changes and will make a big deal about them drastically slowing down the project unless you agree to them. We finally wrote a letter to the state commerce department and complained. The commerce department was key to getting the builder back to work and complete the original contract. If you have a dispute, don't agree to anything either verbally or written until you have all the information in front of you including statement of work, cost, and timelines. I highly suggest you consult your city and even your state agencies (commerce department if there is any dispute between you and your builder). We found our city planning group (where we obtained the permits from) to be very helpful.

We tried to be accommodating and got taken advantage of. Be nice but don't agree to anything. Just say, "you'd be happy to take a look at it." regarding anything that the builder proposes but do not commit to anything unless you fully know the details.

Rain Damage Bad, but all worked out in the end. During the project, the sub contractor left the roof uncovered one evening. When the rain began coming down through the ceiling, we called the contractor (at 12:00 am) to complain. He did not answer the phone so we left a message. We finally did hear back from him later that morning, however we had already called our insurance agent who was on his way out. The insurance agent asked if we got proof of insurance from the contractor. We did as part of the signed contract we received from him. The insurance agent took pictures, documented the damage, and paid the claim. From there they went after the contractor for us. The contractor made a lame offer to try to fix the damages himself. However, as we were already having trouble with him our best option was to go through the insurance agent (State Farm). This proved very useful as he refused to give State Farm the name of his insurance company or his policy number -- which he had changed since we started the project. State Farm filed a lawsuit against him in small claims and won. We had long since been paid for the damages.
Thrill and satisfaction of doing it yourself Bad: We easily saved between $20 - 40,000 by doing all this work. I no doubt learned a tremendous amount about home improvement and how to do many, many things one has to question the original thought about doing this myself over hiring someone else to do this. In hindsight, this project cost around $130-150,000 to do. Originally, I was keeping all the receipts of every trip to Home Depot, Menards, Target, and other stores. I spent an enormous amount of time just driving back and forth not to mention all the work inside the house. Eventually, I began to get angry with myself as well as my family who did little to help me, encourage me, or appreciate my desire to create a nice place for us to live. In the end, I would have rather banked much of the money and just replaced the roof which would have resolved much of our issues with the existing house and allowed me more time to spend with my children - it is time away from them that I will never get back. After 3 years of work and spreading the payments of all this home improvement out enough to afford it, we shouldn't have done such an extensive remodeling project - after all we really didn't have the money. If you have younger kids that can't help you with such a monster effort, go for it. If not, wait till all members of your family can participate as if it is not a "group effort" it is not worth it.

[On to Phase 1] [Seen Enough]

[Project Overview] [Home Design Reference] [Lien Waver Example] [Buy a House] [Heating & AC]

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